A stranger in paradise . . .

I’m thrilled to announce that my new novel How Greek Is Your Love? has just been published.

Based again in the wild Mani region of the southern Peloponnese, it’s a sequel to my first novel A Saint For The Summer. The new novel features the same main characters (Bronte, Angus, Leonidas, Myrto) and a few exciting new ones, with some gripping contemporary storylines. One of these reflects the social upheaval of the economic crisis in 2013 with a rise in extreme far-right political parties based on my own observations of living in Greece during this tumultuous period. The book is laced with plenty of suspense, but also unforgettable romance and humour. It can be read equally as a standalone, or as a sequel.

Here’s a short blurb of the book to whet your appetite:

Bronte’s in love but she’s a stranger in paradise

In this page-turning drama, expat Bronte McKnight is in the early days of her love affair with charismatic doctor Leonidas Papachristou. But as Bronte tries to live and love like a Greek, the economic crisis spawns an unlikely, and dangerous, predator in the village. While Bronte begins to question her sunny existence in Greece, an old love from Leonidas’s past also makes a troubling appearance.

Now working as a freelance journalist, when Bronte is offered an interview with a famous actress/novelist, and part-time expat, it seems serendipitous. But the encounter has a puzzling outcome that will take her south to the ‘Deep Mani’ region for which she will enlist the help of her maverick father Angus, and the newest love of her life, Zeffy, the heroic rescue dog.

The challenges Bronte faces will bring high drama as well as great humour as she tries to find a foothold in her Greek paradise. But can she succeed?

“A captivating book that grabs the reader’s attention and holds it right to the end. This book confirms Marjory McGinn as an author of popular fiction to be reckoned with.” ̶  Peter Kerr, best-selling author of the Mallorcan series of memoirs.

A fortified stone tower of the Deep Mani
Iconic Vathia with its mostly deserted stone towers one the strongholds of warring clans in the Mani, but now a dramatic ghost village

This second novel, like the first, is set mainly in the hillside village of Marathousa, with the same breathtaking scenery, but it also takes the readers to untouched and unforgettable places deeper in the Mani peninsula as dramatic as the storyline, including the ghostly, deserted village of Vathia, where tough, warring Maniot clans built high fortified towers as they fought for dominance; the dramatic Porto Kayio cove; and the fabled cave of Hades (portal to the Underworld) near Cape Tainaron, at the southern-most tip of mainland Greece.

The ancient Temple of Poseidon at Cape Tainaron, close to the mythic Cave of Hades, once believed to be the doorway to the Underworld
Porto Kayio, one of the remote coves of the Deep Mani region

One of the newest characters in the book is the lovable dog, Zeffy, whom Bronte rescues from his homeless existence in the village and who will make you laugh and cry with some of his capers. He will, however, repay Bronte’s love for him in many unexpected ways.

The prequel, A Saint For The Summer, is a contemporary novel but with a narrative thread back to the Second World War to the infamous Battle of Kalamata of 1941 (“the Greek Dunkirk”) and the mystery of what became of Angus’s Scottish father Kieran. He was serving in the region with the Royal Army Service Corps during this time and disappeared in the battle.

Although Bronte had initially gone to Greece to help Angus with a health problem it is this difficult search to uncover the last days of Kieran McKnight’s life that inspires Bronte to stay longer in Greece. And it is this that will bring charismatic Dr Leonidas Papachristou into her life.

I had heard something about this infamous Battle of Kalamata while we were living for four years in Greece and the brave rear-guard action of the allies, who retreated to southern Greece after the Germans invaded in 1941.

The WW2 backstory is only a minor aspect of How Greek Is Your Love?, but if you want to know more about the battle and how Angus and Bronte solved the compelling mystery of what happened to Kieran McKnight, you might also want to read A Saint For The Summer. It has been described by readers as “an excellent storyline”, “a cracking read”, “spectacular writing”, “an exciting novel”.

Here’s a link to an earlier post about A Saint For The Summer.

How Greek Is Your Love? is available on all Amazon sites for £1.99/$2.99 at present. The paperback will be available very soon as well.

How Greek Is Your Love?

A Saint For The Summer

If you like both books, please consider putting a small review/comment on Amazon. It all helps to raise the profile of a book. And is always welcome. Thank you.

For more information about Marjory’s books including the novel A Saint For The Summer and the Peloponnese trilogy, above, please visit Marjory’s Amazon page or the books page on our website www.bigfatgreekodyssey.com

Or visit Marjory’s books page on Facebook

Thanks for dropping by. All comments are gratefully received. Just click on the ‘chat’ bubble at the top of this page.

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American poet inspired by the mythical Mani in Greece

 

Otylo Bay

Otylo Bay in the Deep Mani, close to Areopolis. 

I’M delighted to welcome Katie Aliferis to the blog this week. Katie is an American writer and poet whose family originally came from the Mani peninsula in the southern Peloponnese. She is passionate about her Greek ancestry, and in particular the Mesa Mani  (Deep Mani) region itself. Yet, surprisingly, she has never been to Greece – so far.

That’s a remarkable fact, given that her love for this country has inspired some of her poetry to date. She may not have seen the Mani region yet, but she has managed to capture its ravishing, pared-down beauty so eloquently in her work.

The Deep Mani is the remote lower part of the middle peninsula, a region of untamed beauty dominated by the Taygetos Mountains. It is a place of stony fields, ruined towers, sheltered coves and, to endorse its mythical stature, the ancient Cave of Hades (Entrance to the Underworld) lies at its southernmost point, Cape Tainaron, and features in one of Katie’s poems, Pilgrimage.

It’s little wonder then that the Mani has been the creative muse for much of Katie’s life and I am very pleased to share with readers three of her lovely poems below, following the interview. I hope you enjoy them!

Katie Aliferis

Katie Aliferis

1. Katie, tell us a little about yourself.

In 1906, my pro-papou (great grandfather) came to America from the village of Areopolis, in the Deep Mani, and eventually settled in Cleveland, Ohio. My grandparents were the first generation born in America, which makes me 4th generation Greek-American. I was born and raised in the San Francisco Bay area and graduated from Sonoma State University with a degree in history.

2. Was your Greek heritage an important part of your early life?

Yes it was, and much of it was passed down to me through my yiayia  (grandmother) Viola. She was an amazing woman. She worked hard to keep the traditions alive, telling me stories about the village, cooking Greek dishes and teaching me some of the language. Occasionally, she made me traditional Greek costumes for Halloween and I would go as the “village girl”.

Some of my favourite memories are of the family cracking the traditional red-painted eggs at Easter Sunday lunch to see who would have good luck for the year ahead. Yiayia’s  love for our heritage was always contagious.

Narrow street in historic Areopolis

Narrow street in Areopolis

3. I’m surprised to learn that despite your passion for Greece, you haven’t been there yet!

Most people say that! It is surprising, but I haven’t gone…yet! Throughout my life, I’ve seen many pictures of the Mani and our family’s house and even the family chapel that still stands in the centre of Areopolis. My yiayia and other family members who have been back, or lived there for a time, have told me countless stories of the area and our family history. In my heart, a fire ignites whenever I think of the Mani, Areopolis, our house and the chapel. It is a feeling that is hard to describe, that many people may not understand, but it’s a passion that, when ignited, helps produce some of my best writing.

The family's chapel in the heart of Areopolis

The family chapel in the heart of Areopolis

4. Did you start writing as a way of expressing your love for the Mani and your heritage?

Not exactly. When I was 10 years old, my papou  and one of my uncles passed away and I needed an outlet for my grief. A family member suggested I write a poem about my feelings and after that the poetry took off. Writing became a source of catharsis and pleasure.

5. Apart from writing about it, how do you maintain the older ways of Greek culture in such a modern, vibrant place like America?

Interesting question! I am incredibly proud to be a Maniatissa (woman of the Mani). After I learned about the history of the Maniots and their ways I began to understand more about myself. As you know, from your time in the Mani, Maniots are proud and fierce. We fight for what is right and are (stubbornly) committed to protecting home and family. Every day I work to keep my Greek identity alive by honouring my ancestry and heritage with my actions, passions and writing, of course!

A typical Mani tower

A typical fortified Mani tower built by one of the area’s clan chiefs

6. Hopefully, you’re planning a trip to Greece in the future?
Yes! I want to go sometime soon. Without a doubt, I will be there for Greek Independence Day in 2021, which is the 200th anniversary of the Greek War of Independence, which was started in Areopolis. The war against the Ottoman Turks was first declared there in 1821. My dream is to own our family’s house and live in the village, or at least visit yearly.

7. How do feel about the economic crisis Greece has suffered for the past four years?

It makes me sad to see Greece in crisis, but I hope the worst is behind them and I am optimistic that the Greek people can use their passion and determination, and their kefi (high spirits), to get the country back to a glorious, positive and powerful state.

8. What do you like doing when not working or writing?

I love spending time with family and friends, reading (I’m a sucker for good murder mysteries), travelling and tasting wines and artisan cheeses.

*Katie’s writing has appeared in various journals and websites including: 9 Muses News, Voices of Hellenism Project: Voices (Volume I, Number I) and Velvet Revolution Reading Series. Her poetry is forthcoming in Voices of Hellenism Project: Voices (Volume I, Number II).

Follow Katie on Twitter: @KatieA_SF and visit her website: http://KatieAliferis.com

www.9musesnews.com is a respected American arts and culture website.

Old bakery in Areopolis

Old  bakery in Areopolis and below, a traditional, hand-painted shop sign  

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Χωριό Μου (Horio Mou: My Village)

Deep in my soul
A pulse beats for a
Place I have never visited
A town I have never seen

Blue waves beat against the
White rocks that litter the shore
Cleansing the heart of all who
Rest upon the land

In the center of town
A square of stone acts as the
Focal point of this village
A place where all gather

For coffee, for bread, for ouzo
Just off the square
Rests a moderate home
Made of stone

Slightly white-washed
Slightly dingy, beige
In this house my soul rests
My heart resides

Surrounding the house
Brown and green land
Stands strong
United in stubbornness

Crowned by a majestic mountain
My soul, my heart
My village
My pulse. 

The Cave of Hades

Near the entrance to the Cave of Hades

Pilgrimage

I left the world
To see you smile
I journeyed into
The underworld

Past Cerberus
To hear you
Laugh

I abandoned my
Family and home
To feel your
Skin against mine
Every choice was
Right, every
Decision valid.

Bay at Cape Tainaron

Asomati Bay at Cape Tainaron

The Boat

Curves of brass rust in the wind
Solid base of wood glides over the
Salty white rolling waves while a
Man searches for his destiny
His dinner, his day, his freedom
Gales of might shake and rattle the
Frame that survives these conditions
Simple, this vessel is so simple
Yet so complex to the one who pulls its ropes.*

Thanks for talking to me today, Katie and I look forward to reading more of your work in the near future.

* The poems here are copyright of Katie Aliferis. Not to be copied or used in any other way without permission of the author.

To leave a comment about the blog or to ask Katie a question, please scroll down to the end of this post and click on the ‘comments’ link which you will find at the end of the ‘tags’ listing. 

A book about living in Greece

For more details about my book, Things Can Only Get Feta based on three years living in the Mani, southern Greece during the crisis, visit my website www.bigfatgreekodyssey.com or visit Facebook www.facebook.com/ThingsCanOnlyGetFeta

Visit Amazon to buy the book (Kindle version – new edition). A new edition of the paperback will also be available shortly.

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© Text and photographs copyright of the authors 2014. No content/text or photographs may be copied from the blog without the prior written permission of the authors. This applies to all posts on the blog.

 

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Southern Peloponnese is the star attraction

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Stoupa beach in the Mani

THE Hollywood movie Before Midnight is now doing the rounds with mixed reviews, but one aspect is indisputable – the real star of the piece is the southern Peloponnese.

Focus on this wonderful region of Greece has been long overdue. Having spent three years living in the Mani region (situated in the middle of the three peninsulas), I can vouch for its beauty and real authenticity.

From my experience there, I have drawn up a list of some favourite places to visit, mostly in the Mani. The recommendations for tavernas and other businesses are based on my personal taste alone. Come to the region one day so you can draw up your own list of favourites.

Hillside village of Megali Mantineia

Hillside village of Megali Mantineia

* BEST HILL VILLAGE: Megali Mantineia, in north Mani.

There are many lovely rural villages in the southern Peloponnese but this is my favourite, partly because my partner Jim and I, and our mad Jack Russell dog Wallace, spent the first year of our Greek adventure here and it was the inspiration for my book Things Can Only Get Feta. It’s a short drive from popular Santova beach and nestles on a quiet hillside beneath the north Taygetos Mountains. It’s an unspoilt village with a tight-knit community where most people work as goat farmers or harvest olives.

Unusually for a rural village, there are four very good family-run tavernas here offering traditional dishes. The Lofos (27210 58630), with its vast terrace overlooking the Messinian gulf is on the drive up from the sea; Iliovasilema, or more commonly called Yioryia’s after the owner’s wife (27210 58660), and nearby Sotiris Taverna (27210 58191); Anavriti Taverna (27210 58062), behind the main church, and the Kali Kardia kafeneion in the heart of the village (27210 58306).

Dining experience in Kardamili

Dining experience in Kardamili

*  BEST COASTAL VILLAGE:  Kardamili

Kardamili is an hour’s drive from Kalamata and is the village where some of Before Midnight was filmed. It has a nice old harbour and pebble beaches. The Taygetos mountains form a picturesque backdrop and there is an historic area with traditional Maniot tower houses. From the village are good walking tracks up to the villages behind, like Agia Sophia and Petrovouni. The late Patrick Leigh Fermor’s house is situated at the southern end beside Kalamitsi beach, with excellent swimming and snorkelling.

Favourite walk: from the old town up to Agia Sophia. Favourite taverna: Hariloas (27210 73373), by the harbour, for its charming owner Maria, and the food, of course. Try the doorstep-sized moussaka, always freshly baked.

Favourite shop: The Bead Shop on the main street of Kardamili (693 9455 365), run by Gill Rochelle. This is a treasure trove of unusual handmade jewellery and a trillion fab beads if you want to get creative while on holiday and make your own. Gill is also very knowledgeable about this area.

 Kalogria beach with the house of George Zorbas

Kalogria beach with the house of George Zorbas

* BEST LITERARY CONNECTION: Kalogria beach

 Ten minutes further south from Kardamili is the sheltered sandy cove where much of the book Zorba the Greek was conceptualised. Greek writer Nikos Kazantzakis spent some time here with the real George Zorbas when they were running a lignite mine nearby (see earlier blog post in November for more details). The beach here, where the writer lived in a wooden hut, now demolished, was also the inspiration for the scene in the book where Zorba teaches the narrator to dance the sirtaki. Stoupa is a close second, a long sandy beach nearby with a good selection of tavernas.

Altomira village in the Taygetos mountains

Altomira village in the Taygetos mountains

* BEST LOFTY VILLAGE: Altomira

This is a fabulous village in north Mani at nearly 3,000 ft with a stunning view towards Profitis Ilias, the highest peak in the Taygetos range. The village is partially in ruins, though many Greeks are buying houses and renovating them for summer holidays. The best approach is from the main Kalamata to Stoupa road with the turn-off to Sotirianika, and a 4×4 is recommended.

If you’re a fit, keen walker, there is an old stone kalderimi (donkey track), called the Biliova, from Sotirianika up the side of a hill that will lead you to the village, with great views. You will need to get hold of a local walking map.

 

Near the Cave of Hades, Cape Tainaron

Near the Cave of Hades, Cape Tainaron

* BEST SPOOKY SITE: The Cave of Hades

This is situated on Cape Tainaron at the tip of the Mani peninsula. From the end of the road, at the car park, you take the path down to a nearby cove and the cave is behind a high rocky outcrop, covered by bushes. This is the doorway to the Underworld mentioned by ancient writers and scholars. The place where Hercules performed his 12th labour, dragging out the three-headed dog Cerberus.  From here there is a path to some ancient Roman ruins with mosaics and further on is the lighthouse on the southernmost point of Greece. 

Favourite taverna: This is on the road down to the fascinating town of Areopolis, and the Cape, at wide Limeni Bay near Otylo. Takis Taverna (27330 51327) is right by the water where fishing boats pull in and land the day’s catch.

Stunning Voidokoilia beach

Stunning Voidokoilia beach

* BEST BEACH: Voidokoilia

Apart from the long peaceful Santova beach in the Mani, the most perfect, photogenic beach is Voidokoilia, near Navarino Bay on the Messinian peninsula (left-hand prong). Shaped like the Greek letter omega Ω, it has two headlands, one with a ruined Frankish castle on top. The sand here is soft and the water pale and silky. There is nothing much here apart from the beach, so head back towards Pylos town to the fishing village of Yialova with its own sandy beach and a row of nice tavernas and cafes by the water.

 

View across Kalamata city centre

View across Kalamata city centre

* BEST CITY: Kalamata

Okay, it’s the only city of the southern Peloponnese, but as Greek cities go, this one is very appealing. Set at the head of the Messinian Gulf, it has the lot: a long clean city beach; history (the historic centre, Frankish castle, cathedral and archaeological museum); a vibrant café scene along Navarino Street; a bustling marina with a selection of tavernas.

Favourite tavernas: Koilakos for fish, especially calamari and grilled octopus, Navarinou St, 12,  (27210 22016); the Argo, Salaminos St 52, (27210 25380). Favourite dish, grilled sardines. The other dish is the lovely Adonis, a very entertaining waiter, and a city celebrity. Ta Rolla, Sparta St, 53 (27210 26218). An old-style taverna in the market area of the city with wine barrels full of a lovely local brew and specialties like bean soup and stuffed tomatoes.

Best monastery/silk workshop in Kalamata:

Head to the 18th century Kalograion (Nuns’) Monastery in Mystra Street (near the Ypapanti Cathedral). Once internationally famous for its silk products, made at the monastery by the nuns, it still produces many lovely items in-house though the nuns number only a couple of dozen these days.  The shop here stocks unique hand-printed scarves, embroideries, as well as small icons and religious books.

This is an oasis of calm in the city with a courtyard shaded by orange trees and two small churches. Later, head to the Ypapanti Cathedral to see the ‘miraculous’ icon of the Panagia (Virgin Mary) saved from a fire in the 19th century during a skirmish with the Turks, and the patroness of this city.

Other places to visit in the southern Peloponnese: the archaeological site of Ancient Messene, north-west of Kalamata, close to the village of Mavromati; Nestor’s Palace, one of the finest Mycenaean sites in southern Greece, near Pylos. The twin “eyes of the Venetian empire” Koroni and sprawling Methoni castles at the tip of the Messinian peninsula; lastly, Monemvasia, Greece’s “rock of Gibraltar” in the Laconian peninsula.

For more information about what to see and do in the southern Peloponnese go to our home page on www.bigfatgreekodyssey.com or visit www.mythicalpeloponnese.gr run by the Greek National Tourist Board. A great site for walking tracks in the Mani and other information: www.insidemani.gr

 

Marjory and Wallace with the new book

Marjory and Wallace with the new book

A book about living in Greece

For more details about my book, Things Can Only Get Feta (Bene Factum Publishing, London) based on three years living in the Mani, southern Greece during the crisis, visit my website www.bigfatgreekodyssey.com or visit Facebook www.facebook.com/ThingsCanOnlyGetFeta

Visit Amazon to buy the book (Kindle version – new edition). A new edition of the paperback will also be available shortly.

To read my recent story in The Scotsman newspaper about the southern Peloponnese please click on the following link: http://www.scotsman.com/lifestyle/features/travel-mani-delights-in-greece-1-2976801

If you are a resident or frequent visitor to the southern Peloponnese please share your favourite place and tell me what it means to you. Click on ‘comments’ link below

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