My pen pal Donald Sutherland

Pointer for the digital version of Marjory’s Sunday Times feature

Back in 2000, when I was living in Scotland and working as a freelance feature writer, I wrote a piece for The Sunday Times about actor Donald Sutherland, mostly about his early years working in repertory at Perth Theatre, which was fascinating. It was a phone interview and the actor was very charming and kind, and even included my mother Mary in the conversation, as you will see below.

He gave me a personal email address to contact him if I had any more questions, and I did some time later, though it had nothing to do with the original feature. However, it inspired a series of emails between us, sometimes touching, sometimes bizarre, and when it ended I kept all the emails. When I heard he’d sadly passed away in June 2024, I re-read those emails again and felt privileged to have had this unusual connection with him over four years.

I felt it was a good time, the week he died, to write a small feature about our correspondence as my own small tribute to this Hollywood legend, and The Scottish Sunday Times published it. It had the internet edition’s social media pointer (see above), which was also delightful.

The feature included a picture of myself and my mother Mary, which, if she were still alive, would have thrilled her to bits. It was the first and only time my mother and I have been together in a newspaper article and I will always treasure it.

Bellow is the text of the article for those of you who don’t subscribe to The Times newspapers but who have asked if they may read the piece. I hope you enjoy it.

Part of The Sunday Times article, featuring pictures of Sutherland, Mary McGinn and Marjory

The Sunday Times article

By Marjory McGinn

HALFWAY through a phone interview with Hollywood legend Donald Sutherland, for a story on the actor’s early days working at Perth Theatre, he suddenly asked if he could talk to my mother, Mary.

“Okay, if you like,” I said, slightly anxious, wondering how this would go.

I took the phone to the adjacent room in our Stirlingshire home (in Scotland), where my mother was watching TV. I’d pre-warned her that I’d be interviewing Sutherland and asked her to keep the TV low.

“Mum … Donald Sutherland would like to speak to you, from Los Angeles,” I said, handing her the phone.

“Me?” she said, her eyes wide with confusion.

She took the phone, her hands shaking, but said in her sweetest Scottish accent, “Well, hello, Donald!” as if they’d known each other for years.

It was one of the most bizarre episodes of my life. I sat in the corner of the room, listening nervously. The conversation went on and on, my mother giving the actor a guide to Perth streets and landmarks. Mary, 75, knew Perth well, as she’d been born there, as had I. And Sutherland was apparently lapping up her ‘guided tour’ of the city.

It came about because Sutherland and I had just been discussing the nine months he spent in 1960 honing his craft at Perth Theatre. Canadian-born Sutherland would quickly become the most famous member of the theatre’s dazzling alumni, which includes Sir Alec Guinness and Edward Woodward.

Sutherland – who died on Thursday, aged 88 – told me his time in repertory at the theatre had been his first big break in acting and had given him confidence. “It was like being married to a wonderful woman,” he said, descriptively. “It was the first time in my life where the audience actually laughed when I was being funny. That means a lot to an actor.”

Sutherland, who has Scottish roots, had loved Perth, but had little affection for the draughty flat he rented near the theatre. For some inexplicable reason he wanted to know where exactly it was. Did I know? No! And that’s where my mother came in, at my suggestion.

The pair then blethered on and on about everything to do with Perth: streets, shops, pubs, with me checking my watch constantly, wondering if my dear, affable mother hadn’t just hijacked the interview.

In the end I had to tap her gently on the shoulder and lure the phone back. Later, Sutherland told me he’d enjoyed talking with my mother, but whether they had discovered the whereabouts of his miserable flat was doubtful.

The interview with Sutherland was one of the most memorable of my journalistic career. He was an engaging, thoughtful, entertaining character. At the end of it, he gave me his private email address, in case I had other queries.

I emailed him not long afterwards, offering to send him an historic brochure given to me by Perth Theatre, including his repertory years. He was thrilled. He signed off his email: “My best to your mum and to yourself. Donald.”

Curiously, that was to be the start of a four-year, sporadic, email friendship with him. His missives were entertaining: quite formal to start with, sometimes candid, surprisingly tetchy, particularly when I asked him in 2003 if it was possible to interview him again for his upcoming film Cold Mountain, in which he starred with Nicole Kidman, a subject that was to prove contentious.

He replied: “Dear Marjory McGinn. It’s a little premature to start talking about Cold Mountain. The film’s in its first assembly. There’s a lot of work ahead.” In that email I also thanked him again for his kindness while chatting to my mother because she had since passed away. I wrote: “I wanted you to know that right up until she died, she told everyone she met about your conversation with her about Perth. It was one of the most enthralling moments of her life.”

He replied: “I am sorry about the loss of your mother. It was delightful for me to chat with her and I’m thrilled that she enjoyed it too. My best to you, Donald Sutherland.”

Donald Sutherland and Nicole Kidman in Cold Mountain

Later in the year I wrote to him again, and among other things, gently nudged him about a possible interview for the upcoming Cold Mountain. Even just a phoner.

“I don’t do phoners,” he replied a little petulantly, but surprisingly candid. “Our conversation on the phone (in 2000) was more a little chat about the far distant past. And I’m not going to be in England… But more than all of that. I’ve kind of pulled back into a shell here in Quebec and I’m not planning to give interviews to anybody. I’m too angry. Way too angry.”

Angry at what? Me for asking about Cold Mountain? It became obvious from some of his emails that he didn’t like his privacy being invaded, even though he’d given me his email address.

“Very few people have it. No print journalists that I know of, other than yourself. I trust you will respect the privacy of that address. I know you will anyway. I don’t know why I even bothered to mention it.” However, he finished off by saying: “My new pup is crying in the kitchen so I have to go look for her well-being. I hope you’re well and happy and I send you my best regards, Donald Sutherland.”

I immediately wrote back and apologised profusely for having, or so I thought, given offence over Cold Mountain.

He replied: “My God, you misunderstood, Ms McGinn. I’m not angry about you. Not at all. If I’d been angry, I would never have returned your email. I’m mad about this wretched government that’s doing its very best to ruin the world we live in. Terribly mad. And I don’t even have a vote. Good heavens no. Your letter was filled with affection. Donald Sutherland.”

The ‘government’ comment was a reference to the government in the US, where he’d been living, and its invasion of Iraq.

In early 2004, after finally seeing Cold Mountain, I told him how much I’d enjoyed it, but that his character, the patriarch, the Reverend Monroe, had died way too early, surrounded by his family.

His reply was self-effacing. It was the first time he’d referred to be by my Christian name.

“Dear Marjory. Thank you for your kind letter. I’m fine, still old and still being filmed dying with a bevy of beautiful daughters or grandsons or whatever! By the way, the pup is brilliant. Much affection. Donald Sutherland.”

I wrote to him in 2005 to tell him how much I enjoyed his latest film, Pride and Prejudice, in which he played Mr Bennet, but heard nothing back, and that was sadly to be the end of our correspondence. Understandable, with his heavy schedule of films. Or perhaps he felt the need to pull back into his ‘shell’ again.

I sensed through my fascinating correspondence with Sutherland that he was a peculiarly shy man, sensitive about his quirky looks. He told me during the 2000 interview: “People have considered my looks to be odd and I don’t think I’ll ever really come to terms with that, but they’ve given me a wonderfully delicious life, so I can’t complain.”

A touching admission, but women certainly were never averse to his looks, including his biggest fan, my dear mother Mary.

Marjory’s books

Marjory writes novels and travel memoirs mostly set in Greece. In her latest memoir, Wake Me Up For The Elephants is now published to great reviews. The book is funny and candid and described by Times best-selling author Peter Kerr as “Travel writing at its best”.

It has stories this time from very different places including Africa, Fiji, Australia, Ireland, Greece and Scotland. The Scottish stories include a comical and poignant Thelma-and- Louise-style account of Marjory’s holiday with her mother Mary. It’s a sentimental return to the homeland but full of funny mishaps and remote destinations including the Outer Hebrides and the far northern highlands.

Here’s a link.

https://mybook.to/WakeMeUpForElephants

For more information about Marjory’s Greek memoirs and novels, based on four years living in Greece, and to make contact with the author, which is always welcome, go to her website: https://www.bigfatgreekodyssey.com

The author also has a new writer’s page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MarjoryMcGinnWrites

Thanks for dropping by.

© All rights reserved. All text and photographs copyright of the authors 2010-2024. No content/text or photographs may be copied from the blog without the prior written permission of the authors. This applies to all posts on the blog.

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Snugs, pugs and Irish craic

Author Marjory McGinn outside the famous MacCarthy’s Bar in Castletownbere, County Cork

WE’D just stopped at a tollbooth on the motorway from Dublin to Cork, excited about exploring the city and then the south-west coast of Ireland.

Jim leaned towards the female toll collector, holding out his two euros. She didn’t take it.

“There’s no charge, sir, the woman in the car ahead paid for you,” she said in a lovely lilting accent.

Jim gave me a shocked look, then turned back to the collector. “What? It’s paid? Why would the woman do that?”

“How would I know?” She shrugged.

“Do you think she knows me?” said Jim to the toll woman, as if thinking out loud, trying to make sense of this peculiar gesture.

“I wouldn’t know anything about that,” she said with a wry smile, enjoying this peculiarity herself, or so it seemed. Then she waved us onward.

“Did you hear what the toll woman just said?”

“Yep. What’s it all about? Free tolls for incomers, do you think? Or maybe she liked your smiley face, Jim.”

He laughed. “Hope it’s going to be like this everywhere: free car travel, lashings of Guinness. I’m loving this place already.”

Lush hillsides on the west coast of the Beara peninsula (top) and a high, narrow road on the Wild Atlantic Way

There really is something about Ireland, not just the fabulous scenery, the emerald green fields and far-flung villages. It’s the people mostly. Their minds tick over to a different beat. Their logic doesn’t seem to conform to ours, mostly. They’ve taken left-field thinking to an Olympic level. And it’s all rather grand, until you need directions somewhere, then the logic bedevils you. The instructions never make sense, comical though they are. Driving in Ireland often reminds me of driving in Greece, where directions and rules are bendy things.

But otherwise, I love the wickedly funny way the Irish pull the rug out from under any po-faced inquisitor, blagger, or visiting foreign anorak stressing over bucket lists. I love the craic, the way the Irish make ordinary things fabulously interesting and fun. We listened to the radio a lot while driving in Ireland and I was struck by the banter on phone-in shows. I liked the fact they could talk about ordinary things we’d never touch on in UK for a dozen dismal reasons.

On one radio show there were two or three youngish presenters in the studio, talking about nothing much, but you just had to listen. A girl asked one of the guys what he’d done on the weekend. He said he went to his niece’s (Catholic) church confirmation service. “You should’ve seen her white confirmation dress, it was just gorgeous! Sure, she looked peeerfect!” It was said without the least bit of irony.

On what radio show in Britain, even on a quasi-religious offering, would confirmation dresses be a thing, in such a way you couldn’t help but listen? The Irish could read a shopping list on air and it would sound like James Joyce. The accent helps, of course.

Colourful houses of Allihies on the Beara peninsula (top). View from the Healy Pass in the Caha mountains and signposts near Hungry Hill

We were in Ireland, mainly travelling around the south west, the Beara peninsula in west Cork and up through county Kerry on part of what is known as the romantically named Wild Atlantic Way. This starts near Cork city and winds up the coast all the way to County Donegal, one of the most memorable routes in the world.

The views were glorious, as you’d expect: hillsides with 50 shades of green; village houses in vivid Liquorice Allsorts colours, as in Eyeries and Allihies on Beara. There are also rugged beaches and tiny Dursey Island off the tip of the peninsula, which you can only reach by boat or the cable car on a long line suspended over a narrow but choppy channel. The cable car, on the windy day we visited which was just shy of a proper Atlantic gale, wasn’t operating. Just well; it looked skittery small, hoiked up and stationary on the mainland side.

The drive along the north of the peninsula to Kenmare was also memorable, with turquoise coves and sheep dallying around their edges, dreaming of skinny dipping. After a day on the peninsula we took the winding, sometimes hairy, road back through the Caha mountains, over the Healy Pass to Adrigole, as a shortcut on the way home to our rental cottage.

Not much has changed in the famous MacCarthy’s bar and the craic’s still on tap.

We stayed for four days outside Castletownbere, the main town on the southern stretch of the peninsula, under the famously brooding Hungry Hill which inspired Daphne du Maurier’s book of the same name. The cottage was in the shadow of the hill but with a bedroom window looking straight onto to the ever changing Bantry Bay, and a good reason not to get out of bed in the morning. But to contemplate a lie-in while in Ireland is to miss all the doolally stuff.

The town is unfussy, with a nice harbour, a famous stone circle on its periphery, supposedly haunted by Iron Age ghouls. But the most famous landmark is still MacCarthy’s Bar, featured in the best-selling memoir by English travel writer, the late Pete McCarthy. It’s a brilliant book, and mostly hilarious, as he travels from Cork to Donegal in the 1990s, looking for the real Ireland beneath the tourist cliches, though his main theme was to visit all the MacCarthy’s bars along his route and sample their wares, all of which compounded his outlandish travel larks significantly.

His other preoccupation was to question whether his Irish roots on his mother’s side made him feel more Irish than English. By the end of the book he still hasn’t quite worked it out. But his search is achingly funny and candid, including a hellish three-day pilgrimage to St Patrick’s Purgatory on a tiny island on Loch Derg, Donegal, which McCarthy described as a mix of “Catholic flagellation and Celtic New Age whimsy”. Despite Purgatory’s deprivations, and there were many, he survived with a redemptive shimmer, sober and serious. Luckily for the reader, it didn’t last long.

As a side issue to plundering Irish roots, he also tries to unpick what makes the Irish different and much loved around the world. To him, it comes down to their sociability and warmth, the human touch, he says, and the fact that other people are drawn to the Irish because they’re also (or were in the 1990s) seen as charming underdogs, and romantically rebellious. Or maybe it’s because Irish people are just bloody good drinkers and purveyors of the best kind of craic (Celtic blethering) in the world.

MacCarthy’s bar in Castletownbere with it’s writer’s den ambience, its snugs and pugs

McCarthy spent weeks in Castletownbere, frequenting MacCarthy’s Bar and even had its name changed for the cover photo of his book, by the same name, contracting the ‘Mac’ to Mc. The pub probably should have adopted the writer’s cheeky alteration because inside, the place is like a relic of the 1990s when he was there (frequently). It has a shabby chic, writer’s den appeal with lots of mahogany wood panelling and snugs, and in its way is a lasting memorial to the man who helped put the bar and Castletownbere on the map.

One wall is adorned with yellowing newspaper clippings about the book and the author, and according to the manager, people still come here just to see what all the fuss had been about. It’s not likely the bar will ever be the same as when McCarthy arrived and hugged a snug with a few pints of Guinness before joining in the infamous “all-night hooley” celebrating the landlady’s birthday.

The place still has lashings of appeal, eccentricity and blethery characters. The wall behind the bar is a muddle of mismatched wares: boxes of teabags, coffee, toothpaste … and mouthwash?! A nod perhaps to the days when the place doubled as a serious grocery, selling just about everything. And lastly there was also an ancient manual typewriter hunched against the back wall below football shirts and trendy book bags.

The storyboard to the life of MacCarthy’s bar

Was this clapped-out typewriter actually used by McCarthy? I asked the pub manager. He scratched his head and kept his options open. “Now that I don’t rightly know …. but it could be.” So, it could but I doubted McCarthy would have had the time and patience to batter out even a bit of manuscript on those ancient keys, distracted as he always seemed to be by drinkers, fiddlers, singers and storytellers, and plenty of malarkey going down.

The pub, when McCarthy visited, had a mascot-like pug dog and there’s a similar little guy in evidence, another nod to the place’s most famous drinker/scribbler. McCarthy would have approved, I’m sure, and the visit there turned out to be one of the highlights of our whole Irish trip.

A bit of Dublin romance with rain clouds over the timeless Liffey River
The other, louder side of modern Dublin life with one of its famous pubs, The Temple Bar

The other top occurrence was stopping in Cork for three nights after we left Dublin. The city is small and traditional and feels more human-sized compared with teeming, modern Dublin which I first visited in the 1990s and did fabulous things like join literary walkabouts to pubs that had been typically the daily haunts of the country’s famous writers like James Joyce. I can’t think how the great scribes would handle places like the Temple Bar now, hoaching with tourists, where ceilidh nights or literary soirees seem harder to come by. But the pub is nevertheless still wonderful in its way.

Sin E, one of the pubs in Cork, famous for Irish music nights, hunched up next to O’Connor’s funeral home
A ceilidh band at the Sin E pub in Cork and below, a thoughtful musician strumming over a pint of Guinness

But Cork was a gem with older style pubs, some featuring ceilidh bands and energetic nights of Irish music, like in the Sin É (meaning ‘That’s It’ in Gaelic because the pub hunches up against a funeral home) on Coburg Street. The place was dead lively when we visited, the band going full throttle, the bar four people deep. The place had the kind of Irish vibrancy you hope to find there on just a brief trip but rarely do, so it was a huge achievement just lobbing by.

Cork also has some fine restaurants and shops and it was here that we found Pete McCarthy’s kind of Ireland, and people, with the human touch when I limped into a pharmacy on my first day, my heel peeling away after walking two days around Dublin in ill-fitting boots. The heel blister was huge, weepy, red raw and agony to walk on.

I told my sorry tale to the pharmacist, an older lady with a kindly face. When she asked how messy the blister was, I told her rather proudly: “Oh, not too bad now. I’ve tidied it up by cutting off the useless flappy bit of skin over it.”

She went pale. “Oh, tell me you didn’t really do that!!”

I nodded.

“Well … I’ll need to be looking at it now you’ve said that.”

I was ushered into a small examination room. Once I’d removed the sticky sock, she made a series of comical faces, and then gave the raw heel a blast of antiseptic and plied it with a series of different padded plasters, putting them on, taking them off, getting me up to walk on them, until she found the right one, thick and snug, and then bandaged the whole area. My heel was so padded and trussed up now I could have done a spot of River Dancing round the pharmacy, no trouble.

However, Mrs Nightingale added: “Don’t you be going about now walking on it. You need to rest that foot for a few days.”

“But I’m on holiday. Got to see Cork city. I’ll just hirple around on one foot, kind of.”

She had hands on hips now, a bit severe, but there was a gremlin sparkle in her eyes.

“It’ll take you longer … Cork on one leg. But we’ve all done it sometimes …”

Whatever that really meant, she gave me a cheery smile, and I left in a good mood and could even walk gingerly along with the great job she’d done on the heel. But it was the woman’s ministrations, the time she took, the bit of banter that offered the good outcome you rarely get these days in Britain when you have to stagger into a pharmacy half-dead, begging for help because at the medical centre your doctor is hiding under his desk and won’t come out.

Ireland has changed out of sight over the past few decades but I hope it never loses it sociability, as McCarthy would say, its sense of humour, its eccentricities. Quite apart from having my own Irish roots in the north, and the south (in Cork of all places, but that’s another story), I can’t wait to explore more of this wonderful country. And if I’m back in the south-west I hope MacCarthy’s bar will look just the same, with the typewriter still behind the bar and a pug for a bouncer. And the Cork pharmacist still dispensing care and banter to all the blister sisters who stagger into her shop.

McCarthy’s Bar: A Journey of Discovery in Ireland by Pete McCarthy, Hodder and Stoughton

Marjory McGinn’s latest travel memoir, Wake Me Up For The Elephants is now published to great reviews. You can pick up the ebook on Amazon for a few days (from March 27) at just 99p UK store or 99c US. The book is funny and candid and described by Times best-selling author Peter Kerr as “Travel writing at its best”.

It has stories this time from very different places including Ireland, a tale about staying in a Galway castle owned by a charismatic American couple plundering Irish roots big time. And there’s a hectic horse ride out to Omey Island at low tide with a lobster fisherman. Well, it’s Ireland afterall.

There are also stories from Africa, Fiji, Australia, Scotland, and one from Paxos,  Greece.

Here’s a link.

https://mybook.to/WakeMeUpForElephants

For more information about Marjory’s memoirs and novels, based on four years living in Greece, and to make contact with the author, which is always welcome, go to her website: https://www.bigfatgreekodyssey.com

The author also has a new writer’s page on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/MarjoryMcGinnWrites

Thanks for dropping by.

© All rights reserved. All text and photographs copyright of the authors 2010-2024. No content/text or photographs may be copied from the blog without the prior written permission of the authors. This applies to all posts on the blog.

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Decade of a Feta way of life . . .

THIS month it’s 10 years since my first Greek travel memoir, Things Can Only Get Feta, was published and I’m thrilled to say the book is still going strong: a best-seller in various Amazon categories, despite a publishing drama early on. However, it has soldiered on with vigour and even found its way recently onto the syllabus of a Greek university course. But more of that later.

If you’ve followed my blog over the past decade, you’ll be familiar with how the book, about living in Greece during the economic crisis, came about. But if you’re just tuning in for the first time, in short: my husband Jim and I, and our famously bonkers Jack Russell terrier Wallace, left a Scottish village in 2010 for a mid-life adventure in southern Greece. It was during a British recession and a downturn in the newspaper industry, in which we both worked as journalists.

Wallace, above, and again with Jim and Marjory in Koroni

And what an adventure it turned out to be, settling in a rented stone house in a hillside village in the remote, wild Mani region. It was a working village, raw in places, sometimes well beyond our comfort zone but perfect for our aim of living a Greek kind of life while we freelanced for various publications in Britain and Australia to help fund our odyssey. Greece was on the brink of meltdown due to its devastating economic crisis of 2010. The country, with massive debts, had to accept a bailout from the EU and punishing austerity to go with it. An ideal time for journalists perhaps, but not for a trouble-free stay in beautiful Greece.

However, we went regardless and found ourselves in an ideal location, living amongst big-hearted goat and olive farmers. We made friends with many, particularly the inimitable Foteini, the eccentric goat farmer with her famously endearing taste for thick, clashing layers of clothing and rural mayhem. Ironically, it was my curious friendship with Foteini (pushing my imperfect Greek to its limits) that helped steer our path in the village. She also became an unlikely literary muse – who knew?! Her touching stories and her antics inspired me to start writing Feta, to record a rural way of life in the Mani peninsula (one of the three that hang down from the southern mainland) that I was sure was about to change forever.

Marjory with the unforgettable Foteini
The village of Megali Mantineia, where the author spent the first year of her Greek odyssey
Jim (back row, right) with the wonderful villagers and two of its priests at a celebration in Megali Mantineia

The first year in the village of Megali Mantineia, beneath the Taygetos mountains, exceeded all our expectations. It was challenging, fascinating, often hilarious, and sometimes downright frustrating. We dealt with macabre local customs, a health drama for Wallace, a hospital visit for Jim, critters (scorpions, lots!), eccentric expats, but mostly it was a lesson in surviving Foteini’s ramshackle farm compound, her strong mizithra goat cheese, and a slew of scatty, but endearing animals. At the end of the first year, we decided to stay longer in Greece, which grew to four years in all, living for the final year in the nearby Messinian peninsula, near Koroni. I wrote four best-selling books about our life in Greece, and two romantic suspense novels, also set in the Mani.

Some of the press coverage for the book in 2013

I started writing Feta in the freezing winter of 2010/11 in our stone house, my desk wedged up against the loungeroom window with a view of the snow-capped mountains. But I also had a view of the rickety back entrance of Foteini’s old village house, where she spent her evenings. Sometimes, she must have seen me at the window. Or perhaps she just sensed I was writing about our village antics, many of them hers, and she’d phone, particularly if she hadn’t seen us for a while. It was usually with the same humorous lament. Ach, you’ve forgotten me already, koritsara mou (my girl)!” she’d say. “When are you coming for coffee at the ktima?”

The idea of sitting in Foteini’s draughty farm shack in foul weather beside a dodgy petrogazi (small gas cooker) didn’t always appeal. However, we did go now and then in winter, which I wrote about, including the memorable day Foteini came close to blowing up the shed.

Foteini on her donkey Riko, taken at her farm compound in Megali Mantineia

I had plenty of material for a book, from the adventures and mishaps of the first year, and I continued to add to the narrative over the next three years. Things Can Only Get Feta was published in 2013 by a small London publisher, during a long intermission in Scotland before we returned to Greece again. From the beginning, Feta did very well and sparked great interest, particularly in Greece in the summer of 2013. After doing a phone interview with the editor (Sotiris Hadzimanolis) of the Australian Greek newspaper Neos Kosmos, about our life in Greece and the book, Sotiris filed a similar piece to a Greek news outlet and from there, the story of our exploits went slightly viral.

Versions of it turned up in a slew of Greek publications and internet news sites with variations of the headline: “Scottish journalist besotted with Greece”. While there are many authors today, focusing on a much trendier, revitalised Greece post-crisis, 10 years ago the story of a foreigner having a love affair with Greece in turmoil was certainly more unusual. More than that, it struck a chord with long-suffering Greeks who had hitherto heard nothing but negative, often beat-up, reports in the international media. There were harsh criticisms of the country’s fiscal attitudes and work practices, whereas the story about Feta was a good-news story.

We had scores of messages sent to our website with notes of thanks for my Greek ‘ardour’ and my favourite comment of all time is still: “For your information, Greece loves you back.”

However, despite the book’s success, two years later, while Jim and I were now living in Koroni, I had a falling-out with my London publisher when he seriously broke the terms of our contract. (In publishing, be careful what you wish for!) Rather than allow the book’s success to be sabotaged, I legally forced the return of the book rights to me, and republished it myself in a very short time. This was no small feat, working on an old laptop computer from a hillside house with just a mobile phone and poor wi-fi, or often, no wi-fi. But nevertheless, once re-published the book had a fresh gust of wind under its wings and continued to do very well. Not long afterwards, I published the second memoir, Homer’s Where The Heart Is, and there are now four in all (see links below).

But Feta will always be close to my heart and I’m proud to say it was to become (and the sequels too) one of the very few books to be written in English about life in the economic crisis by a non-Greek living in the country during that time. It prompted Greek author Stella Pierides to suggest: “This book might become a future reference source about life in unspoilt Greece.”

It may have been a presentment of sorts and in 2021, I was thrilled to be contacted by a charming Greek girl called Panayiota, who told me that Feta and the following two memoirs had been offered on the syllabus of a literary course she attended in a northern Greek university, under the theme of how foreigner writers viewed Greek life during the crisis. She had written a paper on the subject. When I first started writing Feta in our Greek rural village during a cold winter, I wouldn’t have believed it would end up on a university syllabus. Or that Wallace may even have been the subject of some literary scrutiny. About time!

Wallace, up to his usual mischief on the first week of our Greek odyssey in 2010

I’m grateful to all my blog readers on this site (some of you have been following my Greek blogs since the beginning) and others who have read my books and shared my stories and had a laugh over some of our more daring, crazy exploits and those of the famously crazy Wallace. I’m grateful to those who still write to me to offer their feedback. One Facebook friend recently told me she has read Feta 10 times so far. “Feta is my comfort-blanket read.” That’s a first! Many reviews and comments have been humorous. “More than Feta, this book is a whole picnic hamper of delights,” said one Amazon reviewer.

It would be true to say that going to Greece and writing the books changed our lives for ever, and only for the better. The only note of sadness in our otherwise happy life was that dear Wallace, one of the stars of Feta, passed away at the age of 16 in 2017 after we moved back to Britain. We were devastated, as Wallace had been through all our adventures with us and had been a talisman, as well as a welcome distraction at times. Few Greeks we lived amongst will ever forget his antics I’m sure, and neither will the many readers who wrote to me after Wallace died with kind thoughts and wishes.

The main consolation I have in Wallace’s passing is that he had a wonderful life and hopefully his memory will live on in my Greek books.

The main stadium at Ancient Messene, which was no match for the shenanigans of Jim, Marjory and Wallace

Feta extract

If you haven’t read Things Can Only Get Feta, here’s a funny extract from the book of one of our crazier exploits, when Jim and I set out to visit the archaeological site of Ancient Messene (10th century AD), north-west of Kalamata. The only problem was we had Wallace with us and, as we’d discovered on an earlier attempt on Messene, only guide dogs were allowed inside this large gated site, even on a near-deserted January day. While we sat in the car eating chicken sandwiches for lunch, we mulled over how we could blag our way inside with the dog. Jim finally came up with a daring strategy. Inspired by the once-warring Spartans who’d also dreamt up unlikely ways to sneak into Ancient Messene, Jim planned to get inside with Wallace hidden in his rucksack . . . . .

“Okay. But there’s one big problem: how do we get Wallace to stay quiet in the rucksack and not start barking?” I said.

Jim thought for a minute. “It sounds a bit gross but we’ll put him inside with the last chicken sandwich. Then we’ll zip the bag at the top and leave him a little air hole. He’ll be busy eating. You know what he’s like about chicken.”

Wallace always had a thing about chicken because Brigit, his kind but eccentric breeder in Edinburgh, fed all her puppies with roast chicken, which was a disaster for feeding programmes later. It explained why chicken was the only food that the fussy Wallace liked unequivocally. He was so besotted with chicken that we had broken every rule in the dog-rearing manual by using the word ‘chicken’ on occasions where danger loomed and every other command was flatly ignored. I turned and looked at Wallace on the back seat. He was panting. He’d definitely heard the ‘chicken’ word.

I expressed serious doubts about the plan but Jim was more optimistic.

“Don’t worry,” said Jim, soothingly, “He’ll be okay in the rucksack. Remember the time we carried him in it when we were hill walking in Scotland and he hurt his paw and was limping? He was good and quiet then.”

“What would the staff do if they caught us with Wallace?”

“Call the cops, put us in the cells for the night. Feed us two-month-old mizithra cheese and village bread.”

My teeth started to ping. “Ach, let’s go for it!”

If nothing else, at least we’d have a bit of a laugh. And in a cold January in Greece, you can get like that, wanting a laugh, any laugh.

“Let’s try him out in the rucksack first,” said Jim, unzipping it and taking things out. First, we threw in a couple of Wallace’s dog biscuits and lifted him inside the bag, which was roomy. He didn’t like it at first but when he caught a whiff of the biscuits, he squirmed around inside to retrieve them, thinking it was a new game, better than hiding biscuits in shoes.

I wasn’t totally convinced, but Jim still seemed confident, and I guessed it was just a bit of a boy thing.

“Okay,” he said. “Get ready to leave now. Get all your stuff. As soon as we unwrap the chicken sandwich and drop it in, we’ve only got a few minutes or so to get through the gate and on our way.” He checked his watch at the same time, as if this was a finely tuned military raid.

We got out of the car and locked it. Jim put on the rucksack with Wallace in it and I dropped in the chicken sandwich, torn into several pieces, which was the messiest part of the plan, and zipped up the bag, leaving the air hole. The minute the sandwich hit the bottom, Wallace was down there like a deep-sea diver and the bag was wriggling like mad, then all went quiet. I could almost hear his lip-smacking enjoyment over the chicken. We walked quickly through the main gate, Jim stood to one side while I went to the small cabin window. I remembered the attendant from the first time we came here, but assumed she wouldn’t recognise me after a summer of foreign visitors. I asked her what time the site closed.

“Are you together?” the woman said, pointing to Jim.

“Yes?”

She looked at him with narrowed eyes. “Can I ask what’s in the rucksack the man is carrying?”

“Just lunch things,” I said in a nervous, squeaky voice. I glanced at the rucksack and thought I saw the edge of it was wriggling. Maybe she saw it as well.

Jim sensed the hitch, aware that Wallace was growing restless, eager for another chicken soother, so he started walking down the dirt track that led between broken columns and the outlines of ancient buildings.

“My husband’s impatient…big archaeology fan. Been reading all about Ancient Mess…”

“Okay,” she said, cutting me off. “But you must be back by 3.30 when the site closes.”

I turned and legged it down the track, smiling to myself. When I caught up with Jim I could hear Wallace starting to whine and the zip was coming further apart at the top as he tried to get his snout into the cool air. Jim walked faster. The site sloped down to an old amphitheatre and from there it was a short walk to a cluster of olive trees. Once there we were safe, out of sight of the entrance cabin.”

. . . . . or were we? Find out how the smuggling strategy panned out finally, one of many amusing adventures in Things Can Only Get Feta

Book extract and all photos ©Marjory McGinn

To celebrate 10 years of Things Can Only Get Feta, the ebook will be discounted to 99p UK/US for three days on Amazon stores from Monday July 17. I hope enjoy it.

To buy Feta on Amazon UK or US click this link:

The book is available as an ebook and paperback on all Amazon sites. The other books in the best-selling Peloponnese series of memoirs, Homer’s Where The Heart Is; A Scorpion In The Lemon Tree, and A Donkey On The Catwalk, are also available on all Amazon sites, the paperbacks also through Barnes & Noble, Booktopia in Australia, and independent bookstores.

Marjory’s latest book Wake Me Up For The Elephants is a travel memoir with a broader canvas: Africa, Fiji, Australia, Scotland, Greece, Ireland. It’s a collection of candid and hilarious tales based on real journeys many taken by Marjory as a journalist and described by best-selling author, Peter Kerr, as “Travel writing at its best.” The book is in part a prequel to the Greek series of memoirs on what the author’s adventurous life was like even before she embarked on the Big Greek Odyssey.

The ebook and paperback are available on all Amazon sites. To buy the Kindle version, in either the UK or the US, click on one of the links below:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C2N788HD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2N788HD

For all books by Marjory McGinn visit her Amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/author/marjory-mcginn

Or visit the website: https://www.bigfatgreekodyssey.com

If you have liked Marjory’s books, do consider putting a review on Amazon sites. It helps a book become more visible and is always appreciated by the author.

Thanks for stopping by.

© All rights reserved. All text and photographs copyright of the authors 2010-2023. No content/text or photographs may be copied from the blog without the prior written permission of the authors. This applies to all posts on the blog.

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